We filed into the large tired drab auditorium
in relative silence. Having only arrived twenty four hours before, no
significant relationships had yet been formed. As good English citizens do, we
formed an orderly line along the edge of the stage at the front of the
auditorium to claim our refreshments, other's didn't queue. Brews of Arabic and English tea was boiling
away.....sadly, to be served in white plastic cups. “Take two cups, one inside the other”, we were advised, “and be careful it could be very hot”.
Most of us plumped for the English brew, although weak and very milky, at this early
stage we were not brave enough to try the Arabic. To my surprise, and sadness, no
fine English “rose patterned” bone china teacups (or PG Tips) were anywhere insight; weak,
milky and white plastics cups it was then.
Having identified parents and carers at my
classroom room door in England by their faces, style and personalities, it was
astounding at induction to be informed in Arabia, and more importantly in this
fee paying British Curriculum school, this was not so. Forty three teachers sat, aghast,
when advised of the recommended tactics we were expected to use.
With thirty children in my class who were
delivered and collected by different carers each day this ranked highly as the most
stressful part of my day. It was not necessarily the children’s parents that collected;
it could be a driver, nanny, maid, governess, grandparent or parent. And if
these were female, it was a pretty much given that they would be
encapsulated in black from head to toe with only their eyes showing.
As you all know Arabian men do not cover
their faces, so for me it was gratifying when a male turned up to do the after
school pick up. Unfortunately the fathers did not pick up regularly; generally
a female member of the family appeared outside my door. Pick up was easier if
not Muslim by faith or the lady came from a bordering country, as generally one
saw the face and the female was only ensconced in the scarf. Any female Muslim
was, more often than not, covered from head to toe in the abaya, scarf and veil
and the more fundamental the more layers of black voile covered their faces. The
most fundamental ladies even wore thick black gloves, tights and socks and some
of the older generations wore a metal plate across the centre of their face. No
flesh to be visible to the world at all, especially to men other than their
immediate male family members.
Traditionally, the Burqa, was worn by the Bedouin women to protect them from the sun, sand and extreme elements on their nomadic travels through the desert. Wearing the Burqa is not an Islamic requirement and is traditionally steeped in local customs, culture and traditions. What is mandatory in Islam is to wear cloth or clothing that cover the whole body, including the hair, except the face and hands. The cloth or clothing (abaya) must not be tight so as to show off or enhance the female form and should not be transparent to make the under garments visible. It is stated that women "cover up" to preserve their modesty and out of respect for their husbands. Arabic women explained to me that the hair, lips and body are all classed as sexual symbols and these must not be on view to any man other than immediate male members of the family and behind the families front door.
So, in the humid dank auditorium, and in
the management’s wisdom, we were tutored to ensure we learnt, and had the
ability to, recognise each mother or female by, what was classed as normal practices, in
this rural small Arabian town. Given a list to digest, a gasp and sharp intake
of breath moved through the auditorium like a Mexican wave. Frowns, raised
eyebrows and rolling of eyes were visible all around me but to my amazement
management just glossed over our astonishment. Queries and comments were
ignored and basically we were told to “get
in with it”.
Dismissively, we were given our
comprehensive list of recommended ways of recognising the covered women at our
classroom doors. It was seriously recommended that we learn the sound of each
mothers voice and then we were given a list of other helpful additions to
observe, take note of and recognise.....rings, brooches, jewellery, shoes, handbags and
even the decoration on their veils or abaya. It was even suggested that we
recognise the way they walk. Scared, flabbergasted and in a state of shock, I really
didn't digest much more of that induction, as, I am sure did no one else. These
practices were to haunt me every day of my teaching life in Arabia. I never did
feel comfortable and was always terrified I would let a child go home with the wrong
person.
The end of the school day was a very
stressful time. I would shake and my heart would race and I could hear it
beating in my chest. I was unable to bring myself to leave my classroom door or trust
anyone else to see my class home safely. I saw my children home safely myself
every single day. The only person I felt I could trust (if I was otherwise engaged in
other teaching responsibilities) was my Lebanese teaching assistant, although I
was constantly worried about the repercussions of child being lost or taken.
On several occasions, we heard of men
disguising themselves in the Burqa and Hijab (veil), clad in black from head to
toe and wearing ladies shoes, attempting to kidnap young children from schools
for organ donation which would be sold to friends, acquaintances and family in other
parts of the world. This was shocking and outrageous and caused much
condemnation among me and my colleagues. The criminals carrying out these
disgusting deeds were part of a sophisticated underworld that somehow secured much
personal information about a particular child in a particular school and often managed to get by
school security and arrive at the classroom door. As teachers and carers, no
matter how worried and stressed we were, we could be nothing but vigilant, responsible and wise. This was normal
practice in this part of the world and this was the way it was. Terrifying and
completely beyond my understanding, I found myself ever over cautious at my
classroom door. I am pleased to tell you my children went home safely with the right adult at all times.
At the end of each day, as you can well imagine,
a strong brew (with a mars bar) was always a welcome and relaxing interlude
in the staffroom after all the children were safely reunited with their
families.